|
GALLERY
GALLERY 2
|
|
|
Here below the changes implemented on this 125/150 MZ from 1979 :
a) the genuine seat is flat, strictly flat, and is not integrated with the motorbike shapes. Fortunately, the frame is trial type (is-it within the MZ DNA ?), and enables pulling down the driver position thanks to seat modifications that seems simple but which required ingenious cutting in order to display it on 2 levels while keeping its base and its original covering. As a result, the seat sticks the motorbike curved lines, follows the toolkit and battery housings, then introduces progressively the rear wheel contours… b) all the MZ 125 are noisy when speeding up due to the absence of intake silencer. You just need to build it up, with fiberglass all around the genuine air filter, which enables at the minimum the same air flow while breaking sound waves via fins to be wisely positioned. The sound level is clearly reduced, and driving becomes cooler. c) while you are at it, once the driving position is pulled down thanks to the 2 levels seat, the handlebar is straightened up like a trial one. Since that, the driving position is about the same like on the Garelli or Cimatti 50cc trial bikes from the seventies! The look takes benefit from that, the comfort as well. d) the MZ genuine head light, it is all a story. Longer and more helfty than an old-timer car one, and absolutely not compliant with the motorbike general style. Don’t deny our pleasure, Japanese motorbikes head lights spare parts are not cheap but such prettier and simpler they are… e) ltalian style front forks fashion was probably a little bit over, but was it a reason for covering them with a mat black color and furthermore to hidden them with horrific rubber bellows (since 1980 models)? Shocking! The Ceriani fork, for a geek of seventies, it is like the Holy Grail… Please, let us sand such black parts that we couldn’t bear again, let us polish that and hop, back to the Italian seventies. f) a 2 stroke engine geek must deserve it: it is not necessary to machining everything, increasing the ports and enlarging the distribution diagram, because it is the best way to get an unexploitable engine. You must proceed differently! We polish the ducts, we modify very little the intake pipe (machining it on the lathe enables to get 3mm on the diameter but why if the engine loses its torque and doesn’t accept an only 4 speed gear box) and we perfectly adjust it to the gasket and the cylinder port. There is probably more to gain in filing down the burrs that obstruct the ducts entrances in the crankshaft housing. The is also the possibility of swapping from 123cc to 143cc, the second one has obviously more torque. Without forgetting the electronic ignition, and the crankshaft lightening (see below). g) bigger than the head light, the crankshaft, real inertial flying wheel worthy of a 500 4 stroke monocylinder engine, kills the accelerations, paralyses the torque, dissuades from high speed engine and postpones when doesn’t impede the following gear engagement... Very powerful inhibitor, this oversized flying wheel is an imposture, a crime, an aberration, a monstrosity. It is like if your bicycle maker had decided to mount a 20 kilos chainwheel... For what? Just in order you can take advantage of your momentum once you’ve acquired it? But at what price? About price, by the way, lightening the crankshaft is a complex process that consists of replacing its external diameter by aluminium. You must take advantage of this operation to add a little bit more aluminium that you removed metal before in order to furtively increase the crankshaft housing compression… Funny isn't-it? The result is simply enormous: the MZ becomes responsive, with franc accelerations since 3000 rpm! Changing down a gear systematically at every crossroad or corner is not necessary anymore. Long uphill slopes flat out on the 3rd gear, it is over as well! As for changing gears, thanks to the engine speed drops, it is not cracking anymore and it is as easy as on a modern motorbike. h) the exhaust pipe and its silencer constitute one of the 2 main horrors of the 125 MZ TS. It is too long and too low positioned and stays perfectly horizontal. Like a perfect Austrian skate sledge... The pipe must be shortened, then bent in order it matches more the engine outline. i) electronic ignition is not a must, it ought to be mandatory. We have to pay tribute to guys that conceived such parts, it is absolutely necessary for a good 2 stroke engine functioning: less noises in stabilized seed, better accelerations at medium and high speed engine, easy starts whatever the weather... j) The exhaust silencer, as the pipe modifications, is advantageously replaced by a 125/150 ETZ silencer that must be shortened and formed to be mounted close to the frame despite the foot rests. Once the pipe and the silencer are mounted and adjusted, (of course, it requires to rebuilt it fixing lugs), one of the 2 MZ ugliness sources miraculously disappears! No skate sledge style anymore. k) a little bit like for the fork, MZ designers probably tried to hide the rear wheel chain housing in keeping it in rough black plastic... Would it have been ugly, why not. But in metalized grey, chrome style, it is much better and keeps it in the same color than the rear wheel aluminum.. So, why to dispense with that? l) the second source of ugliness of the 125/150 MZ is the set constituted with the rear mudguard and wheel: a scrawny wheel within a tight mudguard that drops almost on the tarmac. All that in a very visible metalized grey under a very massive seat and following lateral housing of which the one for tool kit is enormous. Horrendous! Please, remove the rim to a smaller diameter one (17’, unlike 18’ ahead) but clearly wider with a bigger tire (to keep the same genuine diameter) and suddenly, the rear body becomes lovely... m) to encircle the gorgeous wheel (made of aluminium like the genuine front one), nothing is better than a curved and generous mudguard that we borrow to a big modern motorbike (many of them can provide such part, there is a large choice). No money-grabbing, it is better to choose an enveloping one, it is more beautiful. Obviously, the rear frame must be cut because it doesn’t permit a so wide wheel. And the wheel must be repositioned on its axle, without modifying its relative position versus the chain (some expected calculation) but it is possible at last! n) with all these changes, the style is significantly improved. It remains to decide the color. Given the motorbike became pretty, why to hide it with sad and lifeless colors? Without choosing flashy shades which don’t fit such motorbike, some clear colors are very suitable. In this case, it is a white with a drop of purple and a hint of black. Some additional possibilities around yellow-grey or low saturated ochres are interesting. Do you feel tempted? |
|
|